Backpacking Diplomacy by Andy A blog dedicated to sharing world culture and travel tips.
If you are planning to cross the border from Mexico into Belize via the Subteniente López (near Chetumal) and Santa Elena crossing then you are probably wondering what it is like to cross the border. Is there a tax to leave Quintana Roo? Does a corruption scandal exist in that border crossing? Will the border agents request a bribe? Is it safe? This article is intended to capture our thoughts and provide you with an overview of the experience that we had crossing the border.
Disclaimer: This article is not legal advice. The Mexican law can change at any moment, so you need to make sure to double check anything written here. This is purely informational based on personal experience crossing the border. We believe in checking official sites rather than relying on blog information and random posts from unofficial websites, which is why in this article we provide you with the latest official links so you can verify. As a backpacker, crossing a land border is a unique way to get from country to country. We’ve crossed borders ranging from Tajikistan to Brazil and truthfully, each border crossing can be unique on both sides. The Subteniente López and Santa Elena border is no exception.
Before traveling to this border we read online that there were a lot of issues crossing the border from Chetumal Mexico (Quintana Roo) into Belize (Santa Elena). The reviews on this, particularly Google Maps, were inconsistent and confusing.
We recently crossed the border and had this ‘exit tax’ issue on the Mexican side of the border. In the end, we didn’t pay, but we certainly learned some things in the process.
In this article, we’ll share personal experience and try to steer you in the right direction to make sure you have the information you need to proceed.
TLDR: there is technically a tax in Quintana Roo, but we believe that the border agents are using extortion to make money off a scam by charging tourists for a non-existent exit tax. Educate yourself and go in prepared in case you have trouble.
Fact versus Fiction
With the rise of generative answers and spam, the internet can be a vast pool of misinformation. Unfortunately, sometimes it is hard to find out the truth, especially when there is a mix of English and Spanish usage describing the same subject. Let’s look at what is factual versus what is fictional per the official communications from Mexico and Belize.
Facts
DNR or DNI: the Mexican tourism tax
Mexico has an entry tax called Derecho de No Residente (DNR) sometimes referred to as a or Derecho de No Inmigrante (DNI) or simply Tourism tax. If you flew into Mexico on an international flight, then check your ticket as this should be included in the taxes and fees. You can see an example in the image below.
If you entered Mexico by land, there are some exemptions for when you pay or not. Basically if you stay less than 7 days, then no, more then yes. The Agencia Nacional de Aduanas de México, or AANAM, states that this is a mandatory tax, so expect it. This page talks here about information to enter as a passenger. This 2020 guide (in Spanish) talks about the DNR, who pays, and how to pay it. Lastly, this blog post (in Spanish) gives a lot of detailed information about the DNR.
VisiTAX
The Mexican state of Quintana Roo does have a separate state tax. It is called the VisiTAX. In theory, it is supposed to be paid before you exit the state. The VisiTAX is listed in Artículo 51-Octie of the law; yes it is a thing. Depending on the exchange rate, this should cost around $15 (USD) or 300 pesos, but no more (the law will increase it overtime). We were unable to find an official source for the current price, but in completing it for ourselves, the price was 293 pesos in 2026. The cited online numbers seem to vary, but none that we have seen are above 300.
* Following the official law, VisiTAX is exempt for people crossing from Belize into Mexico, but not technically from Mexico into Belize.
**VisiTAX is a legitimate tax. However, there seems to be some gray area around its enforcement. Check Reddit for example. Many airline travelers report that their payment status of the tax is rarely checked when departing from the airports of Quintana Roo. This could change at any moment, but it seems to be poorly enforced as of writing this article. As it is official, it should be paid. And it should only be paid through the proper official channels (i.e. the OFFICIAL website). The official website for the VisiTAX is: https://www.visitax.gob.mx/. There are other websites that claim to be official, just do your research before sending your money off to any domain.
Tarjeta de Visitante Regional (TVR)
The Instituto Nacional de Migración (INM) of Mexico has a Regional Visitor Card, known in Mexico as Tarjeta de Visitante Regional (TVR), but it only seems to apply to Guatemalans, Belizeans, Salvadorians and Hondurans who want to visit Mexico’s southern border states. You can read more about it here. This obviously wouldn’t really apply to any tourists, but we are including it because it came up in our research.
Fiction
Mexican exit tax
In the broad sense of the phrasing, there is no such thing as an ‘exit tax’, or ‘tasa de salida’. If you read the Google Maps and other online forums, there are a lot of commenters mentioning the border agents talking about a ~980 peso exit tax. As far as anything that we’ve been able to uncover online that doesn’t exist. We’ve searched in both English and Spanish, nothing. Perhaps you’ll find different in your research, if you do, please let us know so that we can update this information for other travelers.
Crossing from Mexico into Belize
If you are crossing from Mexico towards Belize, here are a few things you can do to prepare yourself for that crossing.
- Travel during the day. It doesn’t seem like the best border to cross at night. We would not recommend trying to do that at night by yourself, guy or girl.
- Prior to arriving at the border, ensure that you have paid the VisiTAX through the official website (https://www.visitax.gob.mx/). Make sure you save proof of payment. If you have access to a printer, then print it out. Alternatively, maybe a screenshot would be fine, though showing your phone to a border agent might not be ideal.
- If you want to educate yourself, review the official Mexican law on the VisiTAX so you can cite it. Go to this website (https://www.congresoqroo.gob.mx/leyes/195/). Click the official law (in Spanish). Find “Artículo 51-Octie” on the page, this is the law that mentions the tax specifically. If you want to get cheeky, you could print out this law, but we are not sure how that would go over with the border agents.
- Carry cash. You should absolutely carry cash with you, but make sure you hide it well. Keep it accessible for you in case you need it. You may need cash for a taxi driver or to get yourself out of a bind. If we did it again, we’d carry both Mexican pesos and US dollars (though Belizean would be great if you had them). You’ll potentially need the currencies on both sides of the border for transportation.
- Use the restroom before you arrive. If you have a chance, use the restroom before you go to the border. It could take you a while at the border.
Crossing from Belize into Mexico
Crossing into Belize from Mexico by land is pretty easy once you get passed the Mexican side. If you take a taxi, expect a ~5 minute ride. You’ll cross the Hondo river by bridge then be in Belize. If you walk, expect a 40-45 minute walk. There is a 3.1km (~2 mile) gap between the Mexican side and the Belizean side.
In Belize, you’ll need to complete a handwritten form that the border agent will give you. They’ll review it with you, ask any questions and make their decision on your entry visa. As mentioned, this form is handwritten, unlike the digital form used when you fly into the country. We had already completed the digital form, but they did not accept it. They requested that we complete the handwritten form.
As of 2026, there is no entry tax or fee to enter Belize. We had no issues with Belizean border control. It seemed much more friendly, official and standardized than Mexico.
Keep in mind: there is an official departure tax from Belize. It is typically included in your airline departure ticket. However, if you depart by land, then the fee seems to be different.
Our experience crossing the border
We’ll summarize our experience of crossing the border from Subteniente López México into Santa Elena Belize.
Before the border, we started at Chetumal airport. We took a taxi from the airport to the border. The taxi was arranged inside the airport at the official taxi service stand. There were two options for taxi: the driver could either take us to the Mexican side or all the way through to the Belizean side (after passing Mexican immigration). We opted for the Mexican side as we wanted to walk into Belize. To be clear, we went to the new point listed as “Mexican side” in our image above. Online you will find people mentioning “old bridge” and the “new bridge” (Chactemal II). We’re unsure if this is a thing, so cannot verify.
The taxi driver drove us to the Mexican side. It was a small white building. The border agent allowed us into ‘the room’. The door closed behind us, just her and us. She immediately told us that we owed an exit tax. The exit tax was 983 pesos. We kindly contested it. She called the security guard and kicked us out.
We waited. While waiting, we talked to some other random travelers looking for insights. Additionally, we did some research online. We called the embassy. Ultimately, we determined through our research that this tax doesn’t exist. After we waited some more and went back to the room about 30 minutes later. We continued to argue our case some more. She threatened us multiple times. Told us to just leave and go to Belize and see what happens. Basically to ‘take our chances’. Finally, she said she was calling in her supervisor.
The supervisor came. Said, then basically started to say the same thing. We talked with ‘supervisor’, then eventually they threatened us with a future fine on our next entry into Mexico. We kindly asked to be permitted to continue on our journey. They eventually decided to stamp our passports; however, they threatened us with leaving a note on our passport. They said they did, but it’s unclear if that was their last bluff or not.
This whole process took us about forty five minutes to an hour. This was precisely due to this border scandal as there was effectively no line.
All in all, the border agents were very rude. They tried all the tactics. For instance, they told us to just cross the border without a stamp ‘see what happens’. The agents referenced ‘the law’, but every time we asked which one they told us that they couldn’t tell us which law and that we should look it up online. That’s right, the official national border agents were unable to share the border tax law with us. The agent told us that we were wasting her time. Blah blah. In our humble opinion, this is a scandal. It’s a bribe. It’s extortion and we shouldn’t support it. If there’s a legitimate tax, we’d pay it without question, but lining the pockets of corrupt officials is not the way forward.
Be firm. Be informed.
Report corruption
Corruption is a systemic problem. Bribery is a crime. Extortion is immoral. The reasons why it happens, are frustrating but often far beyond our control. A mix of socio-economic, cultural and even institutional shortcomings, have led to this. As backpackers, the best we can do is try to document, report it and share it. If you experience this scandal, then please document it and report it to proper authorities. Mexico has an agency for investigating corruption. The agency’s website is here, and it seems like you can submit via email, call or even through an online form via the Sistema Integral de Denuncias Ciudadanas (SIDEC).
Share your experience
Are you traveling from Quintana Roo to Belize any time soon? Are you planning to cross the border by foot, car or bus? If so, please comment below and share your experience. This will help us to keep this article current and up to date. The information in your comments will help us to provide more accurate information to other travelers.
FAQ
While there is no officially known exit tax from Mexico, there are taxes associated with tourism in Mexico such as those described in this article. Ensure that you are aware of what those are and which you are responsible for and when.
Basically, yes. The DNR replaced the DNI. Here is why.
DNI (Derecho de No Inmigrante): This was the term used under the old Ley General de Población (General Population Law). Before 2011, foreigners entering Mexico for tourism were legally classified as “No Inmigrantes.” Therefore, the fee they paid was the “Right of the Non-Immigrant.”
In 2011, Mexico passed a new Ley de Migración (Migration Law) in 2011 (which went into full effect in 2012). This law abolished the old categories of “Non-Immigrant” and “Immigrant.” Instead, it created new categories: Visitante (Visitor), Residente Temporal, and Residente Permanente.
Because the legal status of “Non-Immigrant” no longer existed, the Ley Federal de Derechos (Federal Rights Law) was updated to reflect the new terminology. The fee is now officially called the Derecho de Visitante sin permiso para realizar actividades remuneradas, but it is commonly referred to in government documents and airline systems as DNR (Non-Resident Fee).
Basically due to outdated information.
Airline Systems: Many international airline booking systems and internal databases (like Volaris or Aeromexico) still use the old “DNI” code or label because their software was configured years ago and never updated to the new acronym.
Colloquial Use: Many travel articles and even some older government PDF forms haven’t been updated, leading people to use the terms interchangeably.
We really tried to do our research. The official Mexican websites have a combination of old and new information floating around. We do not think there is one. It’s just a border scam.
The only other tax that we currently know of is the “Embrace it” tax which affects travelers to and from Baja California. The official website for that is here. We’ll be sure to add more if/when we find them.
If you don’t speak Spanish, don’t fret. You can easily use integrated browser services like Brave Translate to translate a webpage that you are on to the language of your choice. Further, when crossing the border, if you need to communicate your points, consider using a service like DeepL or translator tool to communicate your points.
Yes and no. There is no official transportation at the border. If you arrive to the border by taxi, then you can either pay another taxi to take you across the border or possibly the same driver.
Yes, technically you can. We did. The distance is about 2 miles or 3.1 kilometers. It will take you around 45 minutes to walk between each country’s guard gates. However, it is recommended that you only do this during the day and exercise caution as there is nothing official between the two gates.
Theoretically yes, but it is not recommended. This walk would take you at least 2-3 hours. Further, it could be sketchy and dodgy in some areas. Your options would be either to pay a taxi from Santa Elena, hitchhike (choose driver’s carefully) or wait to see if there is a bus or colectivo.
We paid through the official desk at the airport. The amount we paid was 400 to the Mexican border crossing. We were quoted an additional 200 (would have been 600 total) to get to the Belizean border in Santa Elena but we opted to walk between the two.
We’ve seen different rates quoted but be prepared to pay up to 30-40 Belizean dollars. That would be roughly 15-20 USD. Pesos would not likely be readily accepted.
Based on the websites that we’ve seen, official websites never mention cash as an option. Personally we are skeptical of situations in which officials ask for cash. This is especially true when there is no documentation about the specific charge.
Per the image from the Mexican government’s website, the official payment methods (formas de pago) are bank cards (Visa and Mastercard using pin pad), bank teller (ventanilla bancaria, which we suspect could be a kiosk at the airport), or via the internet using electronic transfers. Although one could likely use cash with a bank teller, cash is not explicitly referenced.
Virtually all official Mexican websites that we know of use a domain with .gob.mx. Be sure to verify all of your domains. If a website looks suspicious, then there is a good chance that it is.
Most definitely. The Mexican tourists taxes seem to change almost annually. Therefore, be advised that all prices may go up, but those changes should be publicized and documented somewhere. They are usually changed in accordance with the Unit of Measurement and Update (UMA).
There are likely many, but if an agent insists you pay a fee that you know you don’t owe, politely ask: “¿Me puede dar un recibo oficial de la Tesorería, por favor?” (Can you give me an official Treasury receipt, please?). If they refuse, then you can be sure that it is not official.
